Recent work…

I have a fluffy dog.

jezzie

In other news, the fish ladder at the Ballard locks is one crazy looking deal. I overexposed the screens on the side, and ended up with this rather creepy view of something that looks like an experimental tank of some sort. It’s actually just a view into the fish ladder from the visitor’s center…

fish ladder

Thinking about landscapes lately, one of the cooler spots I’ve found is right near my house, it seems. Tiger Mountain. I’m not really sure why I’ve never checked it out before. Went down the trails, and found an awesome little spot where the trees are all covered in moss, and there are ferns growing everywhere…

stream

leighanna

Lastly, lately, but not leastly, I went on a little shoot with some ladies at UW for PINK Style U. Just some full-body shots (mostly)… out on the Quad at UW.

kirsten

melody

erin

mariah

The last one was a fun idea shot. She brought out her umbrella to go with her outfit, so, taking a page out of the Jeremy Cowart playbook, I shot a bare speedlight right through the umbrella (SB-600, ended up dialing it way down to 1/64 power at f/4), and natural light did the rest for me (of course the light falling on her from the strobe ended up an interesting color because of the color of the umbrella, but the color balance, overall, ended up pretty nice).

ttfn. :)

The whole deal on lighting.

It’s a bit dry in prose, however, I needed to post this somewhere.

_____________________

Lighting

Lighting is perhaps the most important consideration when taking a photograph. The lighting on the subject or scene in front of the camera, besides, is the only thing that can produce a photograph.

All light comes from light sources. Natural light is light that comes from the sun, whether directly, or reflected off of and diffused through clouds, windows, and objects. Artificial light is any other man-made light; bulbs, fluorescent lamps, fire, flash units, lasers, LEDs, and so on. The list of products man has developed to light up with world seems nearly limitless.

A light is defined by four qualities. First its strength, which is the amount of light that comes from the light source. Next is the diffusion, or how much the light spreads. This is also known as the “softness” of the light. The direction of the light is the next consideration, and then lastly the tone or color balance of the light.

The strength of the light is easily thought of as how “bright” the light is. On a cloudless day, the sun is usually a very strong light source. Reflected natural light, such as in shade, is much less strong. Artificial light sources are their strongest when placed close to the subject. As the light source is moved away, the strength diminishes.

[Sunny 16 Rule: Note that the brightness of the sun is always about the same. In the grand scale of things, everything is about the same distance away from the sun. So on a sunny day there is always about the same amount of direct sunlight, no matter where you are. The Sunny 16 rule is an approximate correct exposure for direct sunlight: f/16, ISO 100, Shutter 1/125. Adjust to equivalent exposures as needed.]

With stronger light sources, smaller apertures and/or faster shutter speeds are possible. The strength of the light source is the primary consideration for exposure settings. The strength of the light, however, actually has no effect on the qualities of the light, as long as the right amount of exposure is used. For example, if your light source is a light bulb, dimming the bulb and then shooting a longer exposure will, for the most part, produce a photo identical to a bright bulb with a shorter exposure. Balancing the strength of multiple light sources will change the tonal qualities of an image, however, and that will be discussed shortly later.

Diffusion, or spread, of light affects how evenly a particular light source spreads light. The best way to think about diffusion is in terms of shadow quality. A “hard” light source will create sharp, defined, dark shadows. A “soft” light source will create fuzzier shadows with more light filling in the shadow areas. The softest light sources may not have any shadows at all. A good way to picture this is the difference between a bright, sunny day, and a very cloudy day. The sun is a very hard light source that produces sharps shadows and high contrast. When it is very overcast, though, the light evens out, and you may have no shadows at all.

Diffusion of light is essentially a function of how large the light source is. A small, direct light source will give hard shadows, while diffusion will increase with the size of the light source. The sun is a very small light source in the sky, and is very far away, so its light is very direct and hard. On an overcast day, the sun’s rays spread out over the clouds before it reaches the ground, and so the entire sky may turn into a single light source, spreading the light out evenly over the ground. With artificial light sources, a lightbulb or flashbulb is usually used as a small, direct source of hard light. Using a softbox or umbrella, or simply by reflecting the light from the bulb off a surface, however, increases the size of the light source, softening the light. Moving an artificial light source away from the subject also tends to soften the light.

The direction of the light affects the shadowing of the objects in the frame. Shadows give the frame depth and texture. The general lighting directions are as follows:

-Top Lighting: This is when the light source is directly above the subject, like when the sun is at high noon. Shadows are short, and fall directly below all objects. In portraits, this can produce shadows on the eyes, and dark areas beneath the nose and lips.
-Side Lighting: This is when the light source is directly to the left or right of the subject, or when the sun is very low in the sky, early mornings or late afternoons. Side lighting emphasizes texture, and objects show their topography and surface qualities with deep, long lateral shadows. In portraits, this tends to evenly light half the face, casting the other half into shadow. It emphasizes facial features.
-High Side Lighting: This is a special case when the light source is above the subject, but at an angle pointing down at the subject. This is generally regarded as the most flattering direction for portrait light, as it is very natural, imitating the direction of most natural light, and can show detail in facial features without casting harsh, awkward shadows.
-Front Lighting: This is when the light source is directly in front of the subject, usually seen in terms of on-camera flash units. This has a tendancy to eliminate shadowing and flatten out features. While hard, direct on-camera flash light is usually discouraged for portraits for its flattening effects, a popular front lighting technique for portraits involves a ring light, which is an O shaped light through which the camera lens is placed in the center. This provides a much more diffused look to the light.
-Back Lighting: This is when the light source is placed behind the subject. This blocks most of the light from the light source from getting to the camera, but creates a distinct halo of light around the subject. This is also known as rim-lighting, or in the case of portraits, hair-lighting. This often is used in conjunction with other lights to provide some seperation on the edges of the subject from the background.
-Bottom Lighting: This is when the subject is lit from any angle below the angle of the camera. This is the most seemingly unnatural direction of light, as natural light rarely comes from the ground. Shadows go upward, and this method of lighting has a distinctly artificial feel.

When using multiple light sources, the effect is always additive. Each additional light source adds more light to the scene, depending on its strength, diffusion, and direction. Traditionally, light hitting a subject can be divided into three categories; key, fill, and back. The key light is the strongest light that hits the subject. This is the main light source. The fill light is any weaker light coming from a different direction than the key light. This light serves to illuminate a shadowed area on the subject cast by the key light. A back light is a special case of the fill light that comes from behind the subject to provide separation from the background. A background light can also be used, and is any light illuminating the background of an image (though key and fill lights often, for the most part, illuminate backgrounds as well). An image may be lit using only a key light (most common in naturally lit photos), or any combination of the types of light.

In balancing light, the first consideration is always the available, or ambient light. Ambient light is any light source that the photographer does not control. During the day in outdoor shots, this is usually natural light from the sun. Indoors, this may include room lights. A photographer may then choose to use other lights. A flood light is a simple lamp that is always on. Typical flood lights may include dimmers, and can be moved closer or further away from a subject as necessary. The most flexible type of photographic light, and also most useful overall, is a strobe, also known as a flash. A strobe produces a short burst of light on the order of 1/500th of a second long. Since the duration of a strobe is so short, changing the shutter speed has no real effect on changing the exposure of a strobe-lit shot. The exposure of a strobe is generally a function of strobe power, aperture, and ISO. This makes strobes a very handy lighting tool for balancing multiple lights, due to the fact that after the correct exposure for the strobe is determined using the strobe power and aperture, the amount of exposure for the ambient light can be precisely controlled by changing the shutter speed, as the shutter speed has no change in the strobe exposure. Using a slower shutter speed to include more ambient light is known as “dragging the shutter”

The balance between key and fill light is referred to as the lighting ratio. While a precise measurement of the key and fill lights could be taken and the ratios compared directly, the more common technique is to simply use a light meter to compare the proper exposure of the fill light compared to the key light. Since the key is most commonly exposed to 0, the fill will be exposed under its full exposure value. Note that one stop corresponds to a halving of light. So a 1:1 ratio corresponds to equal key and fill. A 2:1 ratio corresponds to fill one stop under key, 4:1 corresponds to fill two stops under key, and so forth. Increasing the value of the lighting ratio increases the contrast of the image.

The color balance of the light regards the particular tint of the light being used. White light is made up of a combination of all the colors in the spectrum, and most light used in photographs is “white”. However, the balance of all the colors that make up a particular white light usually give the light a particular tint, or cast. Fluorescent lights have strong green characteristics. Flash units tend to have strong blues. Tungsten lamps are often orange or reddish. The sun is generally regarded as neutral when high in the sky, but as the sun sets, it becomes increasingly warm toned.

As the color balance of the light being used changes, it is often appropriate to set the white balance, that is, return the “white” light in the image to a neutral value. This can either be set in-camera or in post-processing. This topic will be revisited when discussing image processing.

More Lighting Words

The completion of the chapter about lighting… There will be lots of pics to go along with the words eventually…
___________________

Diffusion, or spread, of light affects how evenly a particular light source spreads light. The best way to think about diffusion is in terms of shadow quality. A “hard” light source will create sharp, defined, dark shadows. A “soft” light source will create fuzzier shadows with more light filling in the shadow areas. The softest light sources may not have any shadows at all. A good way to picture this is the difference between a bright, sunny day, and a very cloudy day. The sun is a very hard light source that produces sharps shadows and high contrast. When it is very overcast, though, the light evens out, and you may have no shadows at all.

Diffusion of light is essentially a function of how large the light source is. A small, direct light source will give hard shadows, while diffusion will increase with the size of the light source. The sun is a very small light source in the sky, and is very far away, so its light is very direct and hard. On an overcast day, the sun’s rays spread out over the clouds before it reaches the ground, and so the entire sky may turn into a single light source, spreading the light out evenly over the ground. With artificial light sources, a lightbulb or flashbulb is usually used as a small, direct source of hard light. Using a softbox or umbrella, or simply by reflecting the light from the bulb off a surface, however, increases the size of the light source, softening the light. Moving an artificial light source away from the subject also tends to soften the light.

The direction of the light affects the shadowing of the objects in the frame. Shadows give the frame depth and texture. The general lighting directions are as follows:

-Top Lighting: This is when the light source is directly above the subject, like when the sun is at high noon. Shadows are short, and fall directly below all objects. In portraits, this can produce shadows on the eyes, and dark areas beneath the nose and lips.
-Side Lighting: This is when the light source is directly to the left or right of the subject, or when the sun is very low in the sky, early mornings or late afternoons. Side lighting emphasizes texture, and objects show their topography and surface qualities with deep, long lateral shadows. In portraits, this tends to evenly light half the face, casting the other half into shadow. It emphasizes facial features.
-High Side Lighting: This is a special case when the light source is above the subject, but at an angle pointing down at the subject. This is generally regarded as the most flattering direction for portrait light, as it is very natural, imitating the direction of most natural light, and can show detail in facial features without casting harsh, awkward shadows.
-Front Lighting: This is when the light source is directly in front of the subject, usually seen in terms of on-camera flash units. This has a tendancy to eliminate shadowing and flatten out features. While hard, direct on-camera flash light is usually discouraged for portraits for its flattening effects, a popular front lighting technique for portraits involves a ring light, which is an O shaped light through which the camera lens is placed in the center. This provides a much more diffused look to the light.
-Back Lighting: This is when the light source is placed behind the subject. This blocks most of the light from the light source from getting to the camera, but creates a distinct halo of light around the subject. This is also known as rim-lighting, or in the case of portraits, hair-lighting. This often is used in conjunction with other lights to provide some seperation on the edges of the subject from the background.
-Bottom Lighting: This is when the subject is lit from any angle below the angle of the camera. This is the most seemingly unnatural direction of light, as natural light rarely comes from the ground. Shadows go upward, and this method of lighting has a distinctly artificial feel.

When using multiple light sources, the effect is always additive. Each additional light source adds more light to the scene, depending on its strength, diffusion, and direction. Traditionally, light hitting a subject can be divided into three categories; key, fill, and back. The key light is the strongest light that hits the subject. This is the main light source. The fill light is any weaker light coming from a different direction than the key light. This light serves to illuminate a shadowed area on the subject cast by the key light. A back light is a special case of the fill light that comes from behind the subject to provide separation from the background. A background light can also be used, and is any light illuminating the background of an image (though key and fill lights often, for the most part, illuminate backgrounds as well). An image may be lit using only a key light (most common in naturally lit photos), or any combination of the types of light.

In balancing light, the first consideration is always the available, or ambient light. Ambient light is any light source that the photographer does not control. During the day in outdoor shots, this is usually natural light from the sun. Indoors, this may include room lights. A photographer may then choose to use other lights. A flood light is a simple lamp that is always on. Typical flood lights may include dimmers, and can be moved closer or further away from a subject as necessary. The most flexible type of photographic light, and also most useful overall, is a strobe, also known as a flash. A strobe produces a short burst of light on the order of 1/500th of a second long. Since the duration of a strobe is so short, changing the shutter speed has no real effect on changing the exposure of a strobe-lit shot. The exposure of a strobe is generally a function of strobe power, aperture, and ISO. This makes strobes a very handy lighting tool for balancing multiple lights, due to the fact that after the correct exposure for the strobe is determined using the strobe power and aperture, the amount of exposure for the ambient light can be precisely controlled by changing the shutter speed, as the shutter speed has no change in the strobe exposure. Using a slower shutter speed to include more ambient light is known as “dragging the shutter”.

The balance between key and fill light is referred to as the lighting ratio. While a precise measurement of the key and fill lights could be taken and the ratios compared directly, the more common technique is to simply use a light meter to compare the proper exposure of the fill light compared to the key light. Since the key is most commonly exposed to 0, the fill will be exposed under its full exposure value. Note that one stop corresponds to a halving of light. So a 1:1 ratio corresponds to equal key and fill. A 2:1 ratio corresponds to fill one stop under key, 4:1 corresponds to fill two stops under key, and so forth. Increasing the value of the lighting ratio increases the contrast of the image.

The color balance of the light regards the particular tint of the light being used. White light is made up of a combination of all the colors in the spectrum, and most light used in photographs is “white”. However, the balance of all the colors that make up a particular white light usually give the light a particular tint, or cast. Fluorescent lights have strong green characteristics. Flash units tend to have strong blues. Tungsten lamps are often orange or reddish. The sun is generally regarded as neutral when high in the sky, but as the sun sets, it becomes increasingly warm toned.

As the color balance of the light being used changes, it is often appropriate to set the white balance, that is, return the “white” light in the image to a neutral value. This can either be set in-camera or in post-processing. This topic will be revisited when discussing image processing.

All Of The Lights!

Alright, so I’ve been driving to the new Kanye ever since it came out, but this song has always seemed mysteriously… Photographically themed, perhaps.

Maybe it’s just on my mind because I’m writing a spiel about lighting for the book. It’s getting a bit textbook-ish. I think that it’s because I don’t have any photos for the book yet. Of course, a lot of that is gonna have to end up being my own work, to avoid licensing issues? Anyway. It’s early in the morning. Brian not functioning well. I should be asleep instead of writing a darn book.

Anyway, here’s a bit about lighting…
______________________

Lighting is perhaps the most important consideration when taking a photograph. The lighting on the subject or scene in front of the camera, besides, is the only thing that can produce a photograph.

All light comes from light sources. Natural light is light that comes from the sun, whether directly, or reflected off of and diffused through clouds, windows, and objects. Artificial light is any other man-made light; bulbs, fluorescent lamps, fire, flash units, lasers, LEDs, and so on. The list of products man has developed to light up with world seems nearly limitless.

A light is defined by four qualities. First its strength, which is the amount of light that comes from the light source. Next is the diffusion, or how much the light spreads. This is also known as the “softness” of the light. The direction of the light is the next consideration, and then lastly the tone or color balance of the light.

The strength of the light is easily thought of as how “bright” the light is. On a cloudless day, the sun is usually a very strong light source. Reflected natural light, such as in shade, is much less strong. Artificial light sources are their strongest when placed close to the subject. As the light source is moved away, the strength diminishes.

[Sunny 16 Rule: Note that the brightness of the sun is always about the same. In the grand scale of things, everything is about the same distance away from the sun. So on a sunny day there is always about the same amount of direct sunlight, no matter where you are. The Sunny 16 rule is an approximate correct exposure for direct sunlight: f/16, ISO 100, Shutter 1/125. Adjust to equivalent exposures as needed.]

With stronger light sources, smaller apertures and/or faster shutter speeds are possible. The strength of the light source is the primary consideration for exposure settings. The strength of the light, however, actually has no effect on the qualities of the light, as long as the right amount of exposure is used. For example, if your light source is a light bulb, dimming the bulb and then shooting a longer exposure will, for the most part, produce a photo identical to a bright bulb with a shorter exposure. Balancing the strength of multiple light sources will change the tonal qualities of an image, however, and that will be discussed shortly later.

________________

Imagine it with relevant photos.

Starting The Book…

And indeed pardon me while I make this theme somewhat more navigatable. I’m working, however, on my new pet project, a handbook for beginning photographers. Now of course you might say that “Oh, he’ll start but never finish” but I’ve actually written a fair bit of it already as I write this. I won’t say it’ll be an amazing definitive work of prose genius, but it’ll be: Approachable. Entertaining. AND HAVE BIG PICTURES IN IT. Alright, yes, that is my gripe with traditional books on the subject. Just needs more big photos.

Now for some of the droll prose that I promised I’ve been working on…

‘In 1826, Nicéphore Niépce focused light coming into a lens in a dark room on a sheet of pewter that he believed was covered with the right concoction of photosensitive bitumen (a tar-like substance) to fix an image onto the pewter plate. He exposed the image for a full day, nine and a half hours of light, then returned the image to an oil bath that washed away all the bitumen that was not exposed to light. The result was the world’s first photograph, “The View from the Window at Le Gras.”

With ever improving technology through time, the “camera obscura” (literally translates from Latin into “dark room”), which used a lens to project an image onto a darkened plane, became the small hand-held camera that we know of today. The basic form of the camera remains very nearly the same, however. A lens focuses the image in front of it onto the back of the camera, where a sheet of glass or plastic coated with light-sensitive chemicals or dyes is ready to turn the light that hits it into a tangible image. Of course, these days, even the film has been replaced with sensors that turn that light into digital information, ready to print or upload to the internet.’

So yes, a little historical perspective will be thrown in as well. In the end, I want this handbook to be a guide that will teach people a ton about not only their cameras, but the art of the photograph (devoting lots of pages to composition!), give a nice background on important photographers, a little science, a little tech… it should be good!

Oh yeah, every post should have at least one photo in it.

vintage vw club

Met him at Boomer’s Drive In in Bellingham, part of a Vintage VW club. The bus is awesome.

We’ll Do It Live!

Yeah, I might revisit the last few months some other time.

Here’s some pics of last week’s mini trip up North. Just a couple landscapes, no biggie. :)

bellingham bay

whatcom falls

What’s been up lately.

Well, since it’s been a while, It’s gonna be a pretty fun run through memory lane with some of these shots. :)

carson henley

Umbrella with SB-600 set up camera left, and a white reflector camera right near subject. This was at Carson’s house, just setting up in the whitest wall i could find. This didn’t get into the final EP artwork,
but you can download the EP here. The idea was just a typology of the guys in the band with some ink doodles. Check out the EP for some groovin’ acoustic tunes.

And yes. The dead bird.

angel

And it doesn’t have a head, either! Good grief, I got lucky on this one. I promise I didn’t rip off its head. Method was to just kick the bird onto a sheet of blank white paper and shoot out in the sunlight, then crop out the extraneous paper and clone out some of the dirt that got on the paper from kicking the bird.

Just a bit of interplay between siding and a branch. Yeah, Siding is one of those things, but I really like the interplay of the branches and the shadows of the branches that I got here.

I updated the main page and the portfolio pages on this site with lots of newer shots (finally). :) New version of SimpleViewer is pretty nifty! And still pretty much free!

Handblots

Long time, No update…

Hah, been a bit longer than I anticipated.

Have some jellyfish!

jelly

jelly

I’ve been taking quite a few photos of things on blank white lately. I’m sure it has something to do with trying to feign an uber-modernist aesthetic. Maybe I just feel like it captures the essence of the thing I am trying to photograph better than some natural backdrop. But then again, things take on different meanings when you take them out of their context.

So here’s some anthropomorphic plant parts…

falling(alwaysfalling)

And an ironic textual pairing that perhaps has some anti-establishment flavor?

sample. echo. affirm. (i)

I also played a really cool show with Carson a couple weeks ago at the High Dive, opening for this guy, Allen Stone:
allen stone at the high dive

That was fun. Carson is coming out with a new MySpace design soon based on the photos I did with him a while back and a couple of my graphic designs I drew up for him. Stay tuned!

Site Overhaul… Again

Mostly me playing with Flash. Also most likely temporary as I hone my skills. As soon as I get a chance to re-design, I probably will. :)

I think I’ll stick with the SimpleViewer app for the portfolio, though. Mostly, I just love the way the Photoshop Script can automatically generate a SimpleViewer gallery in no time flat. Highly reccomend it. Simple and clean.

In the meantime, enjoy!